Ok last instalment of the marathon tutorial, and very pic heavy. I took lots of pictures today and when I looked back at them in chronological order it seemed I had skipped back and forth steps. This is because, for me at least, adjustments are made during the finishing stage which necessitate design refinements to achieve a balanced final shape.
Firstly I'll tackle the tricky transition area just behind the bowl. I'll show 2 alternative options for tidying up the fluffy torn grain, one on either side. Firstly with a straight carving knife work from either side into the hollow taking finer cuts.
Then 'feather in' gently with super fine cuts until the last rags are removed. This is best done choking up on the very tip of the knife and at a slicing angle if possible.
On the other side I'm scooping into the hollow with the spoon knife
Then carefully cutting upwards cross grain to remove the rags with a very light sweep.
Well we are working with a natural product here and unsurprisingly the handle has moved and twisted whilst drying. Luckily I have left enough material for this not to be a problem so I'll re straighten things.
My cuts are getting much finer now I am reaching the final shape. I didn't take any photos to illustrate it but I've tapered the handle, thinning towards the bowl. I've also Faceted the top of the handle with cambers and a central flat as I hope you can see in the pictures. Once again, I'm following Fritiof design traits:- If you get chance to acquire one of his spoons take it because he is he design guru I aspire to.
Here I'm taking the finest of edge bevel cuts to make the handle pleasant to hold with no sharp edges
Hopefully you can see the result here. Whilst taking these cuts pay close attention to the grain and stop if the knife starts plunging into the fibres... you may have to change direction.
Taking bevel cuts around the neck to make it more elegant.
Again taking edge bevel cuts from every corner , even round the bowl.
And along the leading edge.
On the back of the bowl I can now finally thin out that material I left for rim adjustments.
Also bevel the inside edges of the bowl.
Ok so the spoon is about finished. I thought I'd just show how I do the trade mark Fritiof Runhall furrows in the bowl. Fritiof uses a normal spoon knife for this with a reground bevel, but I find it easier with a handed scorp. I know mine has a ding that needs sorting but for demo purposes I'll go ahead anyway.
Come down towards the deepest point from both directions. This is the 8mm Flex cut scorp (much easier with a left AND right scorp)
Then another tidy up cut round the rim with the straight knife.
Incidentally I like to leave a fair bit of thickness on the leading edge as this is of course where all the wear will occur with use.
Hope this has been of some use, enjoy your carving, John M
Once again, thank you for the time and effort that has gone into this. I'm sure everyone who views this will gain a bit more knowledge on this wonderful craft.
ReplyDeleteReally great. I have seen this some time ago and have just
ReplyDelete"re-found" it.. thank you for taking the time. it is a good one!!
happy carving
Thanks a lot, great tutorial!
ReplyDelete